Boule (tangzhong method)

A deliciously simple bread using the tangzhong method which requires cooking some of the flour and liquid from the recipe, resulting in a very soft-textured interior.

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I first made bread using tangzhong when I was at university – many decades ago! – with one of my fellow students explaining a method of a roux paste used by her family in China when making their bread.

The result is a much softer crumb: almost pillowy, it pulls apart with barely any effort. It also has more depth of flavour.

The tangzhong method: a bit of Food Science!

I don’t often make bread using a tangzhong starter, but in the past few months I have revisited it as I look for more ways to demonstrate Food Science with my students as well as hopefully introduce different techniques along the way.

The tangzhong method is a great example of when the starch in the flour (amylose) gelatinises. If you’ve ever made a white sauce, such as for a lasagne or fish pie, and seen the sauce when it has cooled, you will note its gel-like texture.

A small proportion of the flour and liquid (water or milk) is boiled together to give a thick paste (a roux).

As the mixture heats up, the starch molecules absorb the liquid and then burst, releasing the starch and forming a gel in which moisture is trapped. This helps increase the moisture content in the dough without making it difficult to handle, resulting in a softer bread interior. The use of milk also enhances the softness.

How much of the flour to liquid in the tangzhong?

I’ve done a fair bit of experimentation over the years with the amount of flour to liquid for the tangzhong.  I typically go for 4 parts liquid to flour.

Recipe: boule using tangzhong – makes 1 boule

For the tangzhong:

• 20g strong plain flour
• 80ml milk or water

For the dough:

• 300g strong plain flour
• the cooled tanzhong (see above)
• 10g sugar
• 7g fine salt
• 7g instant yeast
• 120g milk (or water)
• 30g unsalted butter, melted or softened

(1) For the tangzhong, whisk the flour and milk together in a small bowl to give a smoothish liquid. Heat in a pan over a medium heat for about 4 minutes, stirring all the time. Alternatively, microwave on HIGH for about 2 minutes, whisking every 30 seconds or so. You will end up with a smooth, thick paste. Leave it to cool.

(2) Mix the dough ingredients, including this cooled paste, in a bowl until you get a dough without any floury bits. Knead for 5-10 minutes until smooth – this can all be done on a food mixer with the dough hook if preferred. It starts lumpy but will smooth out. Cover and leave to prove until about doubled in size.

(3) Turn out the risen dough and knead on a lightly floured surface for a minute or two until smooth. Place in an oiled loaf tin or a banneton. Cover and leave to prove until well risen – ideally about double in size again.

(4) If using a banneton, turn out onto a baking sheet and make a few cuts with a sharp knife or razor. Bake in an oven preheated to 200C for about 30-40 minutes until deep golden on top and hollow-sounding underneath. Cool competely before cutting.

NB: as with many breads, if you want an even better rise with a crispy crust pop a tray on the bottom shelf of the oven while the oven heats up. As you put the dough into the oven, pour some cold water onto the tray to create steam, then close the door and let the magic* happen.

*The magic: the moisture from the steam on the rapidly expanding dough at the start of the baking keeps the surface from firming up too much, allowing more of a rise before or sets in place: basically, a touch more gelatinisation, which is why you can get those wonderful shinier blisters on the bread.